Did you just recently come across a sewing machine going through an attic, cellar or garage and had no clue what vintage sewing machines are worth? While these sewing machines are still usable and functional (even in today’s society) most of you who recently found these sewing machines are not interested in keeping them, but instead are interested to see if they are worth anything.

The good news is that there are many buyers for vintage sewing machines out there. The bad news is that there are many, many old sewing machines out there. Antique sewing machines are so prevalent today because so many were built, and built so well, that many are still being used today.

However, just because there is a large supply, it does not mean that you cannot get a decent price on these sewing machines even if you don’t have any knowledge about sewing machines. You just need to have someone show you how to sell them for top dollar and also where you should sell them. Unfortunately, most people do not do the necessary preliminary steps to get top dollar for their vintage sewing machine. Don’t be one of those people who sell their sewing machine for bottom dollar.

Let me go over some very basic things that you need to do in order to sell old sewing machines.  The first thing that you want to do is find out what the value of the sewing machine is. But you won’t be able to find the value of the machine unless you know the year the machine was made. This is relatively easy if you have a Singer sewing machine.  You need to find the serial number first to find the age of the sewing machine. A typical serial number will be a 6-9 digit number preceded by one or two letters. Note that if there is no letter prefix, then the machine was made prior to 1900.

If you have a serial number, look here to check when the sewing machine was made

Once you find the serial number, then you can determine the value of the sewing machine. There are several different ways to do this from getting an appraisal online or you can look and see what other similar sewing machines are selling for online. For me, the best way to figure out a ballpark selling price is to visit eBay or Craigslist and look at all of the antique sewing machines that are listed. More about how to do this in detail coming later.

The next thing to consider is repairs. Does it currently work? If it does, then nothing else needs to be done at this point. If not, then once you have a ball park figure on what your machine is selling for, the next thing to consider is if it needs to be repaired. Obviously if you are only going to get $25 for it, it may not make sense to have it repaired. However, if you expect a good price for a working sewing machine, then it might be worth checking out what it would cost to be repaired. If you do not have someone you know who can do it or you are not handy, then check online for many sewing machine repair sites.

Last but not least, once you know what a ballpark price is and once it is working, then the next thing to do is actually sell it. I recommend that you use eBay to get the best price in an auction because you have only to post one entry to have the country and/or the world buy from you. My other recommend option is to use Craigslist. The problem with Craigslist is that you have to post an entry for every town you want to sell your sewing machine. If you only want to sell locally, that’s fine, but then you limit your selling price because the people who are your potential buyers is a much smaller audience than can see you on eBay and therefore a much lower potential sales price. I highly recommend the DVD on the right that anybody can use to start selling your vintage sewing machine on eBay.

Just one last thing about selling vintage sewing machines. As I am sure you realize, these old sewing machines are very heavy and part of selling the item online is shipping (unless of course you specify the buyer picks up). Here’s a suggestion, build the shipping into the price if using Craigslist or as you can on eBay, include the cost of the shipping in the shipping and handling price when you are selling the item.  Just be upfront with the buyer and tell them that the sewing machine is heavy and shipping will be an extra charge above the selling price.

Don’t want to ship the item yourself? Then use a service like FedEx Office or the UPS store and have them do it for you. Again, check with them first on what it would cost to ship and then build that price into the cost of the machine and/or the shipping and handling part.

I went over a lot of information above, but realize that getting a decent price for vintage sewing machines does not take a lot of work if you know what you are doing and it will be well worth your effort for a little bit of time. Stop by in the future for more detailed information about how to do each of these steps.

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Call 1 800 4 singer with the serial number (it’ll probably start with two letters) and they can generally tell you the model.

I want something simple and easy to use, not too many settings or fiddly stuff, just basic sew!

I’m on a budget too, any recommendations? Many thanks.

http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

What I want for beginners in sewing:

- a machine that doesn’t scare you
- a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable –
just too frustrating to learn on!)
- very good straight stitch
- good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
- a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
- adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
- accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

- blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
- triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
- a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
- electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).

It’s a good idea to have you machine looked at by a pro, especially if it hasn’t been tuned up in a while. The shop might also help you get a new instruction manual. Describe the problem exactly and take a broken needle with you, the location of the break might tell the technician something.

of which there are multitudes still around and sewing (I have a 1954 Centennial 15, perfect working order, for which I paid $10)

Unless you run into a collector and the machine is in perfect condition, figure $0-50, and probably in the $0-20 range.

The TSP had 8 stitches, so some might call it top of the range.

http://www.ismacs.net/elna/lotus.html

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