Vintage Sewing Machines Blog

I’m looking for a very basic, inexpensive sewing machine to make a few cuddly toys for my kids, maybe a hat or two, some toddler cotton trousers …that sort of thing. Nothing extravagant or heavy duty.

I want something simple and easy to use, not too many settings or fiddly stuff, just basic sew!

I’m on a budget too, any recommendations? Many thanks.

http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

What I want for beginners in sewing:

- a machine that doesn’t scare you
- a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable –
just too frustrating to learn on!)
- very good straight stitch
- good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
- a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
- adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
- accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

- blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
- triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
- a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
- electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).

bestsewingmachinehttp://gdata.youtube.com/feeds/api/users/bestsewingmachinePeoplebest sewing machine, electric sewing machine, used sewing machine, antique singer sewing machineUsed Sewing Machine

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I found a used sewing machine that could be converted to a locking stitch for easy basting and removal of basting stitches. It also worked as a regular sewing machine as well. I cannot remember if it used cams for various stitches or not.. Judging from the overall look of the machine and the cabinet it was in I would think it was from the 1950-early 1970’s. Do you know which make and model it might be from?

Not enough information to provide an answer, sorry

Can you flip it and see if there are any old labels on the underside?

Automatic lockstitch pocket welting machine suitable to sew a single or double welt,with or without flap. See our website: www@imca.net

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I have a regular sewing machine, but surely leather would require a special one.

Light weight leathers like pigsuede or lambskin sew fine on most home sewing machines. You will need a leather needle, which has a cutting point instead of a round point. Suggested reading: Sandy Scrivano’s book: http://www.worldcat.org/title/sewing-with-leather-suede/oclc/48535515&referer=brief_results

If you’re sewing heavy leathers, then you’ll need a machine designed to handle such leathers — some of the features you may or may not need include high presser foot lift, more torque than average, needlefeed, etc. You might want to read through: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/category/machines-equipment/
(Kathleen is a patternmaker who’s worked with leather for years.)

Consew Model PW-27 Double Needle Sewing Machine! This machine is used for top stitching on multiple items. Will sew leather, fabric, vinyl. It is a 110 volt, heavy duty sewing machine. NEVER IN A FACTORY!!! Well cared for. Visit our eBay store to buy this and much more.

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Fabric-Out-The-Azz__W0QQ_armrsZ1

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My mom recently passed away and I got the fun job of going through all of her belongings. She was really into arts and crafts and sewing etc. She has 2 sewing machines. One is a "White 1788" brand that she bought in 2000. The other one is a Euro-Pro 385x" and she bought it but NEVER used it so its brand new.
What would they sell for? I am about to have a garage sale and I don’t know what to price ANY of this arts and crafts stuff. So any help would be appreciated.

The price of the Euro-Pro 385x" you can cut the price of it by 1/2 because that is what the sewing stores mark up sewing machines most times, Then you can take the 1/2 and cut it in 1/2 again and that is the value of the machine, even not used it is second hand.

Posted 07.14.2010
This Viking 6440 Sewing Machine is on eBay Limited Testing Demo
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/CurtiszAuctions

Viking 6440 Husqvarna Sewing Machine Accessories Demo Demonstration USED
Extension Table
User Manuals
Foot Control Power Cord tested works
8 Cams for Viking

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Please help me. I would like to buy used sewing machine. I am a big crafter but I would not use it for anything complicating, just basic stuff and I do not have much money at this moment so I have to go for used. How do I make my decision. People sell a lot of those very old types, do they still work, they look kind of cute. Newer models, I do not know? Heeeelp!
Oh, I know where to buy it but how to choose is the question. Shell I go for an old type or newer version.
Thank you guys, thank you all so much for your great advice.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100120140429AApYwiY

I’d especially direct your attention to Giordano’s "The Sewing Machine Guide":
http://www.worldcat.org/title/sewing-machine-guide-tips-on-choosing-buying-and-refurbishing/oclc/36783752&referer=brief_results

This is a find! Someone’s grandma had this in her attic or something, and grandma has gone to her Reward, so here is the foot-treadle sewing machine she had and used for decades, and it’s marked at only 150 euros! It’s for sale in my neighborhood outside Paris, France, and I can get it for you and have it shipped anywhere in the world!

This is great! Look, it’s got the wooden box top, so you can store it and keep it dust-free when you don’t need it! It has been kept in perfect working order — even the belt is supple and ready to rock ‘n’ roll!

This will work anywhere in the world, people, and you can use it and sew away to your heart’s content! I did learn sewing back in the early 1970s in junior high school, thanks to Mrs. Adornetto, and i got an “A” for the course, but sewing has just never really been my bag. It’s a useful thing to know, and I actually CAN buy a pattern and select fabric and follow the instructions and make stuff, I am just really not that interested in doing it myself, is all.

(I do make lace — contact me if you want to buy any. I specialize in the simple, pretty decorative edgings you can sew onto a collar, or sleeves, or a handkerchief border, or a pillowcase border. It is called “tatting,” and my father learned how to do it among the Pennsy Dutch women in his family when he was a boy in Ohio in the Great Depression and all. He encouraged me to learn it, and I did. I never could master the complex loops and lah-di-dahs he could do, but I make a simple edging just fine, thank you! You just need to tell me EXACTLY how many inches or centimeters of lace edging you need, okay? Cuz it cannot be cut! It is made to size! It is very nice on Christening gowns or hankies. Let me know!)

Anyway, what you have to do is contact my agent, RicHernandez, at +33(0)698001705 during 9 to 5 business hours in Paris, France. He speaks English, Spanish and French and he can help arrange the deal. He gets ten per cent. of my action.

Otherwise, you can e-mail me at slobomotion@gmail.com and just deal with me directly, but I like to give my agent work, he is a nice guy.

You would have to send me 150 euros so I could buy the machine. You could send it via the postal system if you like, or Western Union I suppose (but i don’t like them too much, they gouge ya!), or you could send me a French check in euros drawn on a French bank, payable to LISA FALOUR.

Then, I will contact a local shipper. They are specialized in packing and shipping fragile stuff all over the world. They will see that your sewing machine arrives safely, in perfect condition, fully insured in case anything goes wrong. It will probably take a couple of months to get to you, as it will probably travel by sea.

I would tell you what the shipping cost would be, and you would have to get me that money, in euros.

Finally, I would add my fee. I think I would add 110 euros on. That way, my agent would get ten euros, and I would get 100 euros. I would take care of giving my agent his little cut. He lives right near me, and when he is too busy to meet with me directly, I just mail him a check — it’s no problem. He trusts me (he should!).

Then, I can give 100 euros to my husband, and say, look, honey, pay a bill with this! Hee hee hee hee! My French husband loves when I give him money! Bless his stingy little heart, hee hee hee hee hee!!!!! (I loves him so!)

slobomotion@gmail.com

cutecatfaith.com is under construction

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