Is it an antique or worth anything? has all its parts
In good condition, $0-50 unless it’s a 221 or 222 or 99 or other highly sought vintage model currently. Quilters will pay (imo) insane prices for a 221, while other straight stitchers that work as well or better go for a song.
Call 1 800 4 singer with the serial number (it’ll probably start with two letters) and they can generally tell you the model.
I have a family of four, who all need new wardrobes. I’ve decided to invest in a sewing machine since my kids are constantly growing and my husband is always busy doing something. >.< i’m just going to start making their clothes.
I don’t mind buying parts for an old one if it will last longer.
http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm
What I want for beginners in sewing:
- a machine that doesn’t scare you
- a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable –
just too frustrating to learn on!)
- very good straight stitch
- good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
- a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
- adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
- accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a "short shank foot" typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)
If the budget stretches far enough:
- blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
- triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
- a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
- electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full "punching force" at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.
Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.
Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.
Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota
New "bargain brand" I’d probably pick, if new was my choice:
Janome (who also does Kenmore).
For More Info or to Buy Now: http://www.hsn.com/redirect.aspx?id=il&url=http%3A//www.hsn.com/cnt/prod/default.aspx%3Fpfid%3D397690&afsrc=1&sourceid=youtube&cm_mmc=advsvc*youtube*na*397690
Fun and function – have both - with the Singer Futura CE-150 Sewing and Embroidery Machine. Enjoy the convenience of the 24 pre-programmed stitch patterns, 13 needle positions, 1-step button holer…
Prices shown on the previously recorded video may not represent the current price. View hsn.com to view the current selling price. HSN Item #397690
Duration : 0:22:56
Specifically, the thread gets stuck at the part where the thread slides vertically down into the hidden disc on the side. I thought it needed some machine oil, so I bought some to put in it, but it’s still getting stuck. The thread just doesn’t slide through easily. Can anyone help? Thanks!!
I’ve used it several times in the past with no issues so I don’t think I’m threading it wrong.
Is the "hidden disk on the side" the tension disks? Are they dirty? Are you remembering to thread with them open (raise the presser foot, so the thread can actually enter the tension disk)? Are you sure you don’t have a threading problem farther up (a loop of thread caught around a spool pin under the spool, or in the notch of the thread spool?)
If you oiled the tension disks, you must get those clean again. They do not require oil, and will not function well in this state. Because you’ve oiled them, you’ll need several passes at cleaning them… use the rubbing alcohol on well washed cotton cloth strips trick several times, until the dry strips are no longer smelling of oil or have traces of it.
The 10 minute fix for most of what ails most sewing machines:
– Dig out the manual. Take all the thread out of/off of the
machine. Pull the needleplate and the bobbin case if it’s
removeable. Clean and oil per the manual’s recommendation. Use a
brush and vacuum, not compressed air (which blows lint in
farther), and real sewing machine oil, not 3-in-1 type oil (it
hardens and freezes the machine) nor WD-40 type stuff (it’s a
solvent, not a lubricant).
– Clean the tension disks. Take a fold of much-washed cotton fabric (a pillowcase hem or a bandanna is good for this) and dampen it with rubbing alcohol or unflavored vodka. Place the fold between the tension disks and "floss". Floss again with a dry fold of fabric.
– Put in a new needle of the correct point style for the fabric
you’re sewing (ballpoint for knits, sharps for wovens) and the
right size for the thickness of fabric (10/70 for shirting weight
fabrics, 12/80 for heavy shirtings or light pantsweight. 14/90
for medium to heavy pantsweight, 16/100 for very heavy fabrics.
Make sure the needle is in right way around — a needle in
backwards will skip stitches or not stitch at all.
– Rethread, with manual in hand. Make sure the presser foot is
UP when you thread the top — it opens the top tension so that
the thread actually gets in between the tension disk (loops on
the bottom, not enough tension on top).
– Fetch up the bobbin thread. You need about a 4" tail of thread
top and bottom. Run both threads under the presser foot and
behind it.
– If you’ve been playing with the top tension, set it to 4. If
you’ve been playing with the bobbin tension, let me know and
we’ll try to rebalance it, but you’re likely to have to take it
into the shop.
Now, each and every time you start to sew a seam, this is how you
do it:
1) Place the fabric under the needle, and use the handwheel to
lower the needle into the fabric (be sure to turn it the right
way… seee the manual).
2) Drop the presser foot.
3) Hold the thread tails behind the presser foot with your left
hand.
4) Take a couple of stitches
5) Drop the thread tails and sew normally.
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DENdbqq2dE
Comment or PM me if you have any questions or would like me to do a tutorial on anything else. (:
Duration : 0:10:49
I have a very old Singer sewing machine which was converted years ago to electric. At long last this very old friend has given up the ghost. Sewing machines these days seem so reasonable and I think it will cost more to service the Singer and buy new parts than buy a new sewing machine. The Singer only does straight stitch and new ones seem to have a wonderful variety to offer.
What are your preferences on low cost machines?
R – the mind boggles but I have a good imagination so had a giggle!
I have a Singer stretch and sew machine with an L K industrial surger and a Brother multi stitch machine and a Euro Pro surger. I prefer the Brother and Euro Pro combination. I also have a Husqvarna sewing machine for heavier fabrics. Over all the Husqvarna is superior but for the cost to performance ratio, the Brother.
Hello. I can’t find my manual and the picture instructions are for the most part, useless. I’ve no earthly idea how to thread the silly machine. My mom has gotten it mostly done, but we can’t remember how to thread the needle – the thread is just hanging down, parallel to it. Help?
What model machine is it?
Most machines will thread front to back — from the front of the machine, you insert the thread into the needle and pull it through to the back of the machine.
However, note that a number of machines (especially older Singers) will thread from left to right or left to right! It won’t hurt the machine if you thread it wrong, but it will not pick up the bobbin thread if you do.
If you can tell us what the model of your Singer is, we can find out what direction you should use (it’s probably front to back — but not guaranteed so!)
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A requested video on how I thread my sewing machine. I don’t know how helpful it is because every sewing machine is different but I went ahead and made this video anyways. Sewing machines are sort of similar, but not really. Mine is a really basic model. Its a bit loud but it works. I think it was about $100 something at costco.
Music:
Just Off Turner -
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Duration : 0:2:21
1906 Singer Sewing Machine for Sale in Parlor Cabinet! WoW!
Here I am sewing in heavy leather